This design has the widest range of utilities. And I recommend it for 90% of the house shots and bowlers who only play on one house shot. Or, in other words, the average bowler once or twice a week.

1. The arch design – this design is what I call the 90 degree design or Ebonites 90 degree design, it is used in most home outlets. Or if the bowler wants to play the bowling alley in the lane area or between board 13 and 8 on the arrows. This design has the widest range of utilities. And I recommend it for 90% of the house shots and bowlers who only play on one house shot. Or, in other words, the average bowler once or twice a week.

design – When the ball is pierced, place the pin 4.5 inches from its positive axis point (pap) or below your ring finger. On a symmetrical ball, the center of gravity (cg) should be in line with the pin leaning toward your thumb. On an asymmetrical ball, the mass bias should be in line with the pin and directly under your thumb. This is the design of 90% of the Ebonite.

2. The early rolling design. – This design is used in oily or long oil patterns or drag down. It is also used when the bowler wants to play the lanes from 7 boards or should I say lane conditions dictate it. The type of bowling ball is usually solid or particulate reactive resin. This layout can also be used to break down a shot into a sporty pattern. I like to use the word open instead of. Break because that’s what you’re trying to do. The design pin under the ring finger again or 4.5 away from your mush. And the mass or the center of gravity has an angle of 35 to 65 degrees. The angle is determined by how much or early turn you want. I prefer mine at about 35 degrees, which is about 2 thumb inches higher than 3 inches. In other words, 3 inches = 45 degrees and 35 degrees = 2 inches. Another general rule is that the closer the dough is to the porridge, the earlier it will roll up. Average once or twice a week bowlers will rarely need this design unless the bowler is playing at a center that has slippery lane conditions and the shot is further outside.

3. The flip design. – this design is just what it says, it’s a flipping ball. This layout is used to play the deeper lanes on about 14 boards on the arrows with an open lane. This layout is used to stand to the left and give you space. Used when lane conditions have really dry backends and when the shot gets really shredded late at night in dribble games that’s when I used this ball. In other words, a long, strong ball, or now I know a lot of people think it’s an all-around ball, but it’s not really used much, especially if you’re always bowling fresh. OK the layout this layout is the stacked layout it is the 4.5 pin of pap and the cg or mass directly below it in a vertical line, the amount of length is determined by the height above the pin toes. In other words, the higher the pin, the longer the ball will move before flipping or breaking. The surface is usually a solid pearlescent or shiny reactive bowling ball.

Bail – Now if you use this in oil it will slip too much and never flip. So match the ball to the lane condition. Average bowlers once or twice a week will rarely need this layout unless the bowler is playing at a center that has very dry lane conditions or the shot is further in.

Golden Rule.

1. Track area or middle lane conditions. = bow 90% of the bowlers in the house will use this ball.

2. Outside and oilier rail conditions. = early roll.

3. Inside or dry lane conditions = flipped or stacked ball.